Weathering Colds and the Radio

It's raining and I'm at home nursing some variant of the virus that seems to be ensnaring the student population of St. Andrews. This means I feel like doing absolutely nothing and watching tv all day. Oh, wait! That's what I feel like doing every day!

No, I'm just joshing, as my friend Michael would say. I just happen to be a very miserable person when I am sick. That is, sick enough to still do everything but with a head that feels like it might explode, or already did due to the strange side affects of cold medicine.

I was told by a friend of mine today that the Scottish weather has once again returned and brought us winds predicted to be around 40mph. He was upset as he won't be able to golf. I was more upset about the upcoming walk I will have to undertake to get anywhere in this town. Basically, my residence is a mile outside of town and the easiest way to get there is to go through a path through a field. I thought last week's 20mph were bad enough (there are no windbreaks).

St. Andrews suffers from a microclimate, although far from the legendary La Jolla one, due to its position on the Scottish coast. Unlike the west coast, we escape a majority of storms and end up with one of the more temperate Scottish climates. Until the winds arrive. I can deal with snow and frost and rain and sleet. In fact, I like the cold and varied weather. But when you walk through an empty field with no one in sight for miles and hear the howling wind and a few lone crows, it seems more reminiscent of death. Or in Paradise Lost when the devil is about to appear.

On a better note, I am now volunteering at the radio station as a producer. Last Saturday night was my first show. I don't do any announcing - that's what the DJ is for - but I make sure everything goes out on the air, music, DJ's voice, etc., and give feedback to the DJ for the show. The show I'm working on is called Lucien's Alternative to Alternative, which is broadcast at midnight on Saturday nights (that's 4pm for CA listeners). You can stream it online at www.standrewsradio.com I believe that is enough of a plug.

I had a ton of fun the other night throwing it together. There were a couple of snags - like when one of the CDs wouldn't play - and then when the DJ forgot to give me the right cue for a song, but all in all, it went well. I'm sending the DJ some track suggestions and hopefully he'll play some of them.

I should get back to my bowl of tea - I was inspired by the French breakfast ritual of drinking coffee out of boules. I also uploaded my pictures from Cairo which you can view here and more of the pyramids here.

Cairo Continued

I keep thinking about other things I want to blog about, so I better hurry up and finish the Cairo posts.

My Cairo trip was filled with the various tourist sites the rest of the week. I went to the Egyptian Museum and saw the everything they had removed from King Tut's burial site as well as thousands of other objects from the Golden Age of the Pharaohs. Compared to the King Tut exhibit that was in Los Angeles a few years ago, the Egyptian Museum supposedly takes months to go through. For me on the other hand, it took a solid five hours just to walk through the entire museum and take a brief look at the objects. In comparison to the travelling exhibit, the museum gives a much better context and was fascinating. I normally am not very interested in ancient art, but almost everything I saw was brilliant in its beauty and awe-inspiring because of the brilliant craftsmanship and sheer age. To think that these were made more than 3000 years ago!

Another interesting place was Coptic Cairo. It is also known as the Roman Fortress of Babylon and is the oldest standing part of the city. However, Duso and I had a bit of an adventure in getting there. Duso told the cab driver where we wanted to go, but I guess he heard something differently. The next thing we knew we were being driven through a slum that was filled with heaps of garbage and garbage trucks navigating the narrow dirt streets to dump more. The neighborhood seemed to be Christian - the women didn't wear headscarves and there were vendors selling plastic Jesuses. Suddenly we arrived at a gate where the guard asked what nationality Duso and I were and when hearing American, he was satisfied. As for the cab driver, he asked for identification and searched his pockets. When this was done, we continued up a very nice white driveway along the mountainside. We suddenly reached a parking lot where there were busloads of Asian tourists and Egyptian school children. There was some sort of church looking building and grass. The mountains formed a wall around us and on the sides of the hill were carvings of Jesus' life. Under one of them, it read, in English, 'JESUS IS THE SECOND COMING'.

We quickly realized that this was not Coptic Cairo and told the cab driver where we really wanted to be. He took us to the real Coptic Cairo, which I think was one of my favorite places in the city. The churches are in a Byzantine style and there are portraits of St. George all over. There were also tons of palm trees (which reminded me of home) and narrow alleys, giving it a very mysterious Indiana Jones-esque feeling. Afterward, Duso and I had turkish coffee, which I adored.

Besides the Indiana Jones moments (no lost ark, though), I got the whole Lawrence of Arabia feel. One evening Duso and I took a horseback ride through the desert at sunset. We galloped through the sand dunes and took a rest at a campfire set up to resemble some sort of outpost. In the distant, we could see the pyramids as well as the Cairo skyline.

There was the night-time Nile boat tour as well. And no, there were neither crocodiles nor lilies. Mainly there were oil slicks and blackish water. Duso told me not to touch the water either - it was known for having tons of bacteria and chemicals in it.

We also went to some of the few bars and clubs Cairo has to offer. There was Cafe Houria, where they serve Egyptian beer, Stella mostly, and tasty bar snacks Egyptian style, which are little yellow bean like things resembling soy beans. They were really good and salty, perfect with the beer. We also went to Odeon, a hotel, known for its decaying colonial style and rooftop bar. There was the Cairo Jazz Club as well which played live music, but with a cover band (no jazz was to be heard the evening we went).

And then there were the Pyramids. Despite the familiarity of them, there were incredible in reality. The structures are massive and despite the years of Egyptian school children climbing on them (we saw many, adults too, climbing up specifically where it said 'No Climbing'), they are still there. Like everything in the Egyptian Museum, it was incredible to think what marvels of engineering they were! And how they still are standing! The Sphinx was the least impressive and the erosion is extremely evident. It was also strange to see the massive fences and hordes of badly dressed Eastern Europeans posing in front of it.

Overall, I am extremely glad I was able to visit Cairo. I'm not sure how much of a hurry I am to return to it - I think Paris wins when it comes to a fabulous city - but it was by far the most culturally different place I've been to. Though as Duso's American roommate pointed out, he was glad he had had the transition of visiting Europe before moving on to Egypt and the Middle East.

First Two Days in Cairo

I am starting to wonder what I did in Cairo - but it is all coming back to me. Having been back in Scotland for over week, I have quickly been returning to my Scottish lifestyle and getting away from worldwide traveler mode.

The first day I arrived in Cairo it was 1am. Duso met me at the airport - thank god! - and we went back to his apartment, which is in the Al Manyal district, close to the city center. The airport was not as horrendous an experience as I thought it was going to be. I did get very confused due to lack of signage and got into the wrong line. I didn't help that all the Germans on my plane were equally confused - the plane had left from Cologne, Germany - and Germans do not know how to form a proper queue. The British do know how to do that right. There is even a joke that Brits will get into a queue for absolutely anything and often they do not even know why they are in a queue.

Eventually I made it through passport control. I had to buy my Visitor's Visa for $15 from one of the many banks next to the passport control lines and then had it stamped by passport control and was set free to try to get my luggage and avoid people trying to sell me stuff. By the time Duso and I made it to his apartment, it was pretty late. We had a quick snack and went to bed.

The next day we did a grand tour of Cairo, visiting the old Islamic citadel and the bazaar. The Citadel was built in response to the Crusades as a military strong point for the city. There is also an absolutely gorgeous mosque there and as the whole complex is on a hill, the view is outstanding. In the distance we could see both the pyramids of Giza and the older ones of Saqqara. There are also a strange assortment of museums there including an old Ottoman palace, a military museum, and a police museum. Like any great country, Egypt believes in Revisionist History and Duso and I found it very funny to see which wars Egypt had actually won. We were also very intrigued to see if the military vehicles parked in the garden were made of metal or plastic. They certainly looked like they were plastic, but they sounded like metal when we hit them, and the signs said they were real.

A sidenote - in Egypt, no one follows the rules. We were going to go into the Police Museum, but the guard told us it was closed. We started to walk away when he called out, 'If you are quick, you can go in'. But then we would have had to give him a 'tip' and we didn't really care that much about a police museum. As for the rules, it is most apparent in the traffic. Although there are lanes painted on the streets, no one actually drives in them, creating their own variety of lanes ranging from 2 to 20. If I had driven like that, I would have been dead in instants. But I guess the Egyptians have figured it out as pedestrians follow similar rules as the drivers. I have learned to be an excellent jay walker since I got to Britain - all motor vehicles have the right of way - but no where as near to as good as those who have lived in Cairo.

Later that day, we went to the bazaar. From what Duso was telling me, there is only one true bazaar in Cairo and it is much more a Middle Eastern tradition than North African. I kept forgetting that Egypt, despite being Muslim, is in fact North African. The bazaar was exactly as I imagined it - narrow alleys with vendors selling absolutely everything imaginable. It is a major tourist destination as well so the vendors speak almost every language and try to lure customers in with their best English phrases (which I mentioned before here). Most of the stuff is pretty useless - need a fake copper Egyptian cat with hieroglyphics on it? - although I think my favorite random stuff was the giant baskets of spices and herbs. For some reason all the vendors kept saying, 'Want belly dancing?' and would gesture to a back room. I kept thinking it was the Islamic version of strip clubs and when I mentioned this to Duso, he laughed. 'They have belly dancing outfits', he said. That explained a lot. Although why would I want a belly dancing outfit? Then again, I saw tourists buying tons of junk.

I did make several purchases in the bazaar. Postcards, for one, but I was planning on buying them anyways. Then I, with Duso's help, bargaining for two beautiful linen scarves, one of which I gave to my friend Kat in Germany to thank her for hosting me. The best thing I bought though was a beautiful pair of earrings. Duso and his roommate have gotten to know a shop owner in the bazaar named Hani. Hani and his brother run an antique shop that sells a lot of interesting artifacts from Iran, Iraq and other parts of the Middle East. Hani also runs a jewelry shop where he handmakes all of his pieces. I bought the earrings which are made from beautiful red stones and a carved wooden scarab with copper and turquoise details. Unfortunately, the scarab fell off when I later went horseback riding, but that's another story.

Culinary Concoctions of Cairo

As a foodie who likes to proudly boast of my latest culinary concoction - earlier this week it was baked trout in a bed of potatoes and chorizo with a marinade of lime juice, garlic and green onions and a salad of arugula, blood oranges and camembert - I found the food in Cairo to be just as much of an adventure as the city.

Initially, I had thought that Egyptian food would lie somewhere between Lebanese and Persian. Wrong, wrong, wrong. As my half-Jordanian flatmate later said, 'Egypt is like the Wales of the Middle East'. The food was not exactly bad, but it was far from the land of pita and hummus. It was not the worst regional cuisine I've had yet - England still wins that one, with Poland being a close second. I will make a distinction between English and Scottish food, one in which I will proudly admit that I adore haggis. That's already on the list of things I will miss.

Back to Egyptian food. The majority of the food I tried was street food. None of it was necessarily bad, as it was all edible and initially I enjoyed it a lot. It's just very boring. For breakfast, Duso and I would normally go to the little sandwich-esque shop and buy a pita-like sandwich that had falafel (or the Egyptian equivalent) and hard-boiled egg. Then for lunch it would be shwarma (or doner, in Turkish, or gyros, in Greek), the roasted meat on a spit in a sandwich. Traditionally, koushari is eaten for lunch. Duso called it the 'poor man's food' and for about $0.20, you get a giant tub of pasta mixed with chickpeas, tomato paste, and spicy sauces.

My personal favorite of all the Eygptian dishes was ful mudammas (pronounced fool), which is traditionally ate at breakfast, although we had it for dinner. Made from broad beans, it was most akin to a bean stew. We asked for spicy, although in Egypt and what seems like most European countries, they have no true notion of the word 'spicy'. The restaurant we went to for the ful was one of the most picturesque places I ate at. Duso's friend, Morgan took us down the strange maze of streets that make of the Garden District where she lives. It is also one of the most colonial areas of the city housing the British and American embassies. When we got to the restaurant, it was little more than a built up stove, several shelves, and a wealth of plastic patio furniture. Lights were strung from every which way and among the variety of plants, it felt like our own personal oasis.

Setting aside, the ful was very good, worth eating again. They served the ful with tomatoes and onions and brought an omelette and bread to eat with it. The other notable items I found were the pastries, although not quite as good as the ones from the Armenian bakeries in Pasadena, and the Turkish coffee. But coffee deserves it's own post.

My Introduction to Cairo

Luckily it has been pretty warm here in St. Andrews since my return from Cairo. I was a little afraid that the warm days in the high sixties (in a desert!) would leave me unprepared for the Scottish winter. However, unlike January, the pond has yet to freeze over and I haven't encountered any frost filled mornings since my return.

Unlike my past trips, it is hard to say that my trip was amazing, awesome, or any other awe-inspiring adjective. I think out of all the places I have been so far that Cairo was the most interesting and the most challenging destination. Unlike the European countries I've been in, perhaps with the exception of Poland, the language was completely incomprehensible. It's amazing what the knowledge of a few key phrases can do for you. My Arabic vocabulary now consists of: habbibi, or 'dear/love', a constant in all modern Arabic music; halas, 'enough', useful in getting camel ride operators to leave you alone or any other variety of hasslers; shukran, 'thank you'.The other problem I found was being a white woman. It did not help that I was the fairest in colouring for miles around and that wherever I went I got a ton of attention whether it was just stares or people asking 'How much?' in Arabic. In other words, they were asking my male friend Duso, who was the one I was visiting, how much he would sell me for. I did get one of the highest offers - six million camels - which is impressive even for Egyptian standards. Whether it was the amount or the fact the guy knew the word million in English which Duso kindly pointed out, it was still a lot. As for the most ridiculous line I heard, some guy at the bazaar (most of these incidents occurred there where the majority of vendors attempt their best English 'phrases' to win over customers) said, 'Look! You dropped something!' I turned and looked down and when I saw nothing, he replied, 'It was my heart falling as it broke!'

It was also amusing to watch the attempt to approach all cultures. When they saw Duso, who is Asian, the vendors would often greet him with a 'Ni Hao!' He was very offended being Chinese neither in nationally or heritage. What was even better was when one camel driver approached him with an 'Aloha!' Again he is not Hawaiian and what are the chances of someone being Hawaiian in the middle of the Egyptian desert? I think proportionately the chances for Chinese are greater.

In general, as long as I was prepared for the comments, the touching (some girl grabbed me and called me 'Moon' in Arabic - a compliment I later learned, as the moon is a sign of beauty in Arabic poetry - while her friend demanded for money), and the stares, I was fine. There were only a few moments where I was not comfortable - i.e. when some guy kept following me through the Egyptian Museum and a different guy attempted to film me at the Pyramids. Unfortunately for us white women, our media has given the Arab world a wonderful view of us - white, non-Islamic women are considered extremely promiscuous, especially in the Islamic world where dating is not allowed, let alone physical demonstrations or public displays of affection. Suddenly, that literature class I took, Passionate Puritans and the Roots of American Literature, is coming back to me.

I got into several discussions with friends before I left for Cairo over the concept of the headscarf. They felt it was a threat to women, and I do agree that with the abstract concept of it comes the repression of women as seen in the various extremist regimes of the Middle East. However, just as I would expect a traditional Islamic person to understand why in my country I would never follow such a rule, I felt that I needed to have respect for their culture and if necessary, follow their rules. Countering my friends' opinions that they would absolutely refuse to cover their heads even in a mosque, I felt my general philosophy applies: If you want to break rules, you must first follow them. The women that do bolster the general equality of women (yes, feminism) are those who follow the rules but use their position to assert change. I think it is most obvious in the realm of the professional: journalists, doctors, teachers, etc.

Currently in Europe, there is a giant discussion over immigration and the immigration of Muslims. In countries like France and Germany, not only is there a mass influx of Muslim immigrants, but a large portion of them are having an extremely difficult time assimilating. Whether this is due to them refusing to assimilate or the governments ignoring that there was a problem is up for debate. Even in Britain it is a major issue with Pakistani immigrants. Just last week the Archbishop of Canterbury Rowan Williams ignited Brits over the Islamic tradition of sharia. However, in regards to Cairo, I must have followed the Anthropological view of 'observation'. Although a few acquaintances of mine from Berkeley tend to take passionate roles, whether politically demonstrating in foreign countries and the like, I decided I'd rather just observe for the time being and then decide what my ardent opinion was. No need to call the embassy to ask for legal advice yet.

I did get the sense of repression in Egypt though - whether it was sexual or otherwise. Most of the attention I got was from men. However, after being in Egypt for a week, there was a general atmosphere of despair. The LA Times recently had an interesting article about the buses in Cairo and the average life of an Egyptian. The writer pointed out the terrible pollution, the rising prices and the stagnation of wages. All of those were noticeable while I was there. The dollar does stretch pretty far - it was about 5 Egyptian pounds to 1 US dollar. Duso lives in a very middle class neighborhood, far from the usual haunts of tourists and I saw a variety of interesting things. His apartment (the picture to the left) was previously occupied by a minor Egyptian tv actress. Outside there was the usual view of a variety of other middle class apartments.

When I first got to Cairo, I knew it was not going to be the ideal desert setting, a la Bogart's Casablanca, but I think I was a little more than surprised at the overwhelming poverty. What I would consider middle class was far from what the middle class there had achieved. What also surprised me were the hours people kept. The streets were packed and busy for what seemed like the entire night. The usual hours Egyptians keep are from 10am or 11am to 3am. The shops are not open before that and often don't close until the wee hours of the night. And no one ever seems to be at work. My general overstatement of the day: everyone just hung out at cafes or the local shawarma stand. There is a joke in Egypt that if they say it will take a week to get something done, it will really be ready in a month. Apparently public sector jobs are even worse.

When I was in Poland, my Polish friend Michael explained the poverty situation. 'They are poor because they are lazy. They just take the money the government gives them and drink it all away', he said. Somehow I doubt that in an extremely Islamic country (I think I saw a total of 3 non-hotel establishments that served alcohol) that drinking the government's money is the problem. Then again I'm just another 'rich' girl talking politics. Or a Socialist, as Michael so kindly put it when contrasting his Libertarian ideals.